The Los Nevados film: Cordillera Central

Cordillera Central · 3 days · 37.8 miles

Los Nevados Hiking Guide

Valle de Cocora to Juntas across the paramo in 3 days.

Watch the film · 741K views
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Look inside

Real pages from the guide. Tap one to see it big.

  • A day page page from the Los Nevados Hiking Guide
    A day page
  • A day map and elevation profile page from the Los Nevados Hiking Guide
    A day map and elevation profile
  • At a glance page from the Los Nevados Hiking Guide
    At a glance
  • The rules, the guide and the camps page from the Los Nevados Hiking Guide
    The rules, the guide and the camps

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The route

My GPS recording of 3 days on a relief map. The numbers are where each day starts; the red dot is the finish. The full GPX files and the day maps come with the guide.

Relief map of the Los Nevados route: 3 days drawn in red with numbered day starts, labelled Valle de Cocora, Juntas, Nevado del Tolima and Finca La Primavera.
Day 1Day 2Day 3Highest 14,550 ft (4,435 m)

Elevation, start to finish: highest 14,550 ft (4,435 m), lowest 6,200 ft (1,891 m).

Map data: Terrain: Mapzen Terrain Tiles (SRTM, GMTED) on AWS · Glaciers, rivers & lakes © OpenStreetMap contributors

At a glance

Days
3 days
Distance
37.8 miles
Climbing
About 12,500 ft (3,800 m) up
Nights
Finca La Primavera, about 12,370 ft (3,770 m)
Route
The Valle de Cocora to Juntas

What's inside

  • Where things stand. Los Nevados in October 2026: the mandatory guide, booking and insurance, the earthquake, closures and the volcanoes, checked on the parks service's own pages.
  • All three days. Stats, the time I took, my notes, the route, where to turn back, maps with elevation profiles, and links to that day in my film.
  • My GPX files. My own recordings of all three days, with waypoints for Cocora, Acaime, Estrella de Agua, La Primavera, La Playa, the high point, Termales del Cañón and Juntas, ready for AllTrails, Gaia GPS, Garmin or Organic Maps.
  • The rules, the guide and the camps. How to book a registered guide, the insurance, who can go, where you can camp, and what the park says to carry.
  • Getting there. Flying into Pereira or Armenia, the bus to Salento, the jeep to Cocora, and getting out from Juntas and Ibagué.
  • Altitude, rain and safety. The months that work, altitude sickness, cold rain and fog on the paramo, mud, the river crossing and landslides.
  • Salento, costs and a trip sheet. Salento and a coffee farm, what a guided trip costs in 2026, one page of checks and a printable summary of the route.

About this trip

In March 2021 I hiked alone across Los Nevados National Natural Park in Colombia: from Salento and the wax palms of the Valle de Cocora up through the cloud forest to a mountain farm, over the high paramo below the glacier of Nevado del Tolima to the hot springs at Termales del Cañón, and down to Juntas above Ibagué. It's the trip from my film Hiking Alone in Colombia. Since 2026 the park requires a registered guide, so this guide tells my crossing and how to do the same route now: my GPX files, maps and notes for all three days, the 2026 rules, the guide and the camps, the earthquake's effects, getting to Salento and out from Juntas, costs, weather, altitude and safety, and a trip sheet.

Watch the film on YouTube (741K views).

Gear for this route

Paid links: I earn a commission if you buy through these links, at no extra cost to you. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

It rained on all three days and it's near freezing on the paramo. Here's what I carried in 2021, what I'd take now, and what I filmed with.

What I carried in 2021

From my film and photos. I have no full gear list for this trip.

  • Packa hiking backpackWith a water bottle and my umbrella in the side pocket.
  • Sheltera small green tent, a sleeping bag and a padFor Termales del Cañón.
  • Raina large umbrellaI used it on all three days.
  • Footweartrail runnersThey were full of mud by the end of each day.
  • Lighta headlampI arrived at La Primavera after dark.
  • Foodsnacks and a meal shakeBetween the farms.
  • Navigationthe AllTrails appIt recorded all three days.

What I'd take now

My current kit for what this crossing needs.

Filming kit

What I filmed this trip with in 2021, from my photos' camera data. My setup is smaller now (below). Check the drone rules in Straight answers before you fly: the parks service allows drones only with a filming permit.

  • CameraSony a7S III Amazon
  • LensSony FE 12-24mm f/2.8 GM
  • DroneDJI Mini 2No longer made.
  • Tripoda tripod
  • PhoneApple iPhone 12 Pro MaxFor photos and the AllTrails recording.

What I film with now

Since September 2026 I film with a smaller setup: the Pocket 4 and the Mic 3 on the trail, and the Mini 5 Pro in the air.

Everything I carry now: my gear page.

The Day 1, Valle de Cocora to Finca La Primavera page from the Los Nevados Hiking Guide

Free sample + packing list

Try Day 1 free, plus my packing list

Valle de Cocora to Finca La Primavera

The whole day page from the guide as a PDF, plus my camping packing list: the 42 things I carry, with a note on each. The PDF opens right away and both come by email. You'll also get my emails about new guides and trips, a few a year.

The details

Format
A PDF sized for a phone (A5, prints fine too) and a folder of GPX files, in one zip download.
Edition
2027 season edition, updated October 2026.
Delivery
Instant. After you pay you get a private download link. Bookmark it to download again on any device.
Payment
Secure checkout through Stripe, in your own currency. Tax is included in the price, except in the US and Canada, where any sales tax is added at checkout.
Refunds
Not useful? Email me within 30 days for a refund: kraig@kraigadams.com.
Questions
Email kraig@kraigadams.com.

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$19

Questions

Can you hike Los Nevados without a guide?
Not anymore. Since 2026 Parques Nacionales requires a registered guide in every sector of Los Nevados National Natural Park, booked through a registered operator at least five business days ahead, with accident and rescue insurance.
How long is the trek from the Valle de Cocora to Termales del Cañón?
About 22.6 miles (36.4 km) by my GPS over two days: 12.6 miles from Cocora to Finca La Primavera and 10.1 more over the high paramo to the hot springs. I came out the other side to Juntas, 15.2 more miles, for 37.8 in all.
How high does the Los Nevados trek go?
About 14,550 ft (4,435 m) by my GPS, on the paramo below Nevado del Tolima near Campamento Arenales. Termales del Cañón is about 12,960 ft (3,950 m).
Where can you camp in Los Nevados?
Only at Termales del Cañón, Arenales and El Calvito, 35 people each. The farms on the route, like Finca La Primavera, take hikers in beds.
Is Los Nevados open after the 2026 earthquake?
The park's south sector is open with a guide. The August 10, 2026 earthquake damaged houses in Salento, which reopened within days, and set off landslides on the Juntas side, so check with your operator before planning to finish at Juntas.
When is the best time to hike Los Nevados?
The drier seasons are December to February and July to August. Rain and fog are possible any month, and the park closes for five days after Easter, in late September and in late November.

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Los Nevados Hiking GuideInstant PDF + GPX