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Peaks of the Balkans: a still from my film

Kosovo, Montenegro and Albania · May 2026 · Solo

Peaks of the Balkans

185.7 KM · 6 DAYS · 9,110 M

6 days through Kosovo, Montenegro and Albania.

Watch the film 21:31 · 33K views

At a glance

Where
Kosovo, Montenegro and Albania
Distance
185.7 km (115.4 miles)
Days
6 walking days
Climbing
About 29,900 ft (9,110 m) up and 28,200 ft (8,600 m) down
Season
Guesthouse season is summer. I went in late May, with a lot of snow
Difficulty
Hard in May: long days, steep snow without a trail to follow, and storms
Route
Shtupeq i Madh to Babino Polje
When I went
May 20 to 25, 2026
Relief map of the Peaks of the Balkans route: 6 days drawn in red with numbered day starts, labelled Shtupeq, Babino Polje and Valbona.
Day 1Day 2Day 3Day 4Day 56Highest 7,450 ft (2,270 m)

Elevation, start to finish: highest 7,450 ft (2,270 m), lowest 2,240 ft (682 m).

My GPS recording on a relief map. The numbers are where each day starts. The GPX files come with the guide.

Everything I made about it

The films

Photos

  • The view from my first high point on Day 1, near Llutovë.
    The view from my first high point on Day 1, near Llutovë.
  • The snowy ridge above Vusanje on Day 3.
    The snowy ridge above Vusanje on Day 3.
  • The Theth valley from Qafa e Pejës on Day 4.
    The Theth valley from Qafa e Pejës on Day 4.
  • The icy slopes near where I turned back on Day 6.
    The icy slopes near where I turned back on Day 6.
Me on the way up to the ridge above Vusanje on Day 3.
Me on the way up to the ridge above Vusanje on Day 3.

The guide · 68-page PDF + GPX files · 2027 season edition

Do it yourself

6 days through Kosovo, Montenegro and Albania.

  • All six days
  • My GPX files
  • Border permits, explained
  • Guesthouses and getting there
  • Early-season snow

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The whole Day 4, Qafa e Pejës to Valbona page from the guide as a PDF, plus my camping packing list: the 42 things I carry, with a note on each. Both come by email. You'll also get my emails about new guides and trips, a few a year.

Music in this films

All music

What I'd take now

My current kit

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Short answers

How many days do you need for the Peaks of the Balkans?
Most people take 10 to 12 days, a stage a day, with a guesthouse every night. I walked 115 miles in six days, which meant long days of 17 to 25 miles.
Do you need a permit for the Peaks of the Balkans?
Yes, to cross the borders on the trail. It's free in Albania and Kosovo, and Montenegro charges EUR 6 per application plus EUR 3 per person (2026). Apply at least two weeks ahead, or pay a local operator to do it.
When is the best time to hike the Peaks of the Balkans?
Roughly mid-June to mid-September, when the guesthouses are open and the snow is gone. I went in late May 2026. The trails were empty, but the high passes were buried in snow and I didn't finish the loop.
Where do you sleep on the Peaks of the Balkans?
In guesthouses. Families in the villages rent beds and cook dinner and breakfast, and many pack lunch. I also camped twice when there was nowhere else to sleep that high up.
How do you get to the Peaks of the Balkans trail?
There's a way in from each country: buses from Pristina to Peja and the Rugova valley, from Podgorica to Plav, or minibuses from Shkodër to Theth and the Komani ferry toward Valbona. I flew into Pristina and started in Rugova.

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