
Patagonia, Chile · March 2020 · Solo
Torres del Paine
137.2 KM · 5 DAYS · 4,450 M
The O and the W alone in 5 days, Patagonia, Chile.
Watch the film 33:17 · 1.9M viewsAt a glance
- Where
- Patagonia, Chile
- Distance
- 137.2 km (85.3 miles)
- Days
- 5 days
- Climbing
- About 14,590 ft (4,450 m) up and 14,430 ft (4,400 m) down
- Season
- Southern summer. The O opens about November to March, on dates CONAF sets each season. I walked March 10 to 14, 2020
- Difficulty
- A well-made trail with no scrambling. One real pass. Wind and weather are the hard part
- Route
- Laguna Amarga to Central
- When I went
- March 2020

Elevation, start to finish: highest 3,960 ft (1,208 m), lowest 100 ft (31 m).
My GPS recording on a relief map. The numbers are where each day starts. The GPX files come with the guide.
Everything I made about it
The film
Photos

Open grassland on the first day, the Paine peaks in the cloud ahead. 
The Los Perros glacier and its gray lake, just before camp, Day 2. 
Lago Grey still and clear in the morning, Day 4. 
The lake under the three towers at the Mirador Base Torres, Day 5.

The guide · 51-page PDF + GPX files · 2027 season edition
Do it yourself
The O and the W alone in 5 days, Patagonia, Chile.
- All five days
- My GPX files
- How this trek works
- Costs, then and now
- Getting there
Free sample
Try Day 3 free
The whole Day 3, Los Perros to Grey page from the guide as a PDF, plus my camping packing list: the 42 things I carry, with a note on each. Both come by email. You'll also get my emails about new guides and trips, a few a year.
Gear on this trip
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What I carried in 2020
- Packa black roll-top backpack
- Tentmy own tentA green one in the film. I slept in it three nights, at Dickson, Los Perros and Central.
- Water filtera filter that screws onto my water bottlePeople said you could drink the glacier water straight. I never trust it.
- Power banka portable batteryI charged the camera from it over USB, sometimes while hiking, with the battery in my side pocket.
- Foodsausage, cheese, crackers, nuts and dried fruitPlus two Meal2Go bars and about five pouches of Performance Nut Butter from the States (see Food and water).
Filming kit
- CameraSony RX100 VIIThe size and weight were the big plus. I couldn't open its battery door with the tripod plate on, so I kept one battery in the whole time. The image quality and the built-in microphone weren't as good, and for the Pacific Crest Trail I leaned toward a bigger, better camera.
- Camera poucha waterproof pouch on my hip beltThe camera rode in it.
- Tripoda tripodAt full height in strong wind, the camera was knocked over completely once. Nothing broke.
What I'd take now
My current kit
- TentNEMO Hornet Elite OSMO 1P
- Sleeping padTherm-a-Rest NeoAir XLite NXT
- Sleeping bagHyperlite Mountain Gear 20° Quilt
- PackHyperlite Mountain Gear Unbound 55
- Rain shellArc’teryx Beta AR Jacket
- PuffyArc’teryx Cerium Hoody
The Americas and New Zealand bundle
This guide is in The Americas and New Zealand Hiking Guide Pack: 36 guides for $39. Or all 62 guides for $59.
Short answers
- How many days do you need for the Torres del Paine O circuit?
- I walked the O and the W in 5 days in March 2020, about 85 miles on my GPS, with two very long days. Most people take longer: the park suggests 8 to 10 days for the O and the operators about 8 to 9. Your camp bookings decide your days.
- Do you need reservations to hike the O or the W?
- Yes. On the O and the W every night must be booked before you go in, with Vertice (Dickson, Los Perros, Grey, Paine Grande) or Las Torres (Serón, Francés, Los Cuernos, Central, Chileno). The rangers at Coirón check your O bookings. Day hikes like the Base Torres need only a park ticket, bought online at least 24 hours ahead.
- Which direction do you hike the O?
- Counterclockwise. The stretch from Serón over the John Gardner Pass to Paso is one-way, and you register at every ranger station and sign out at Los Perros and Paso.
- Do you need a guide for Torres del Paine?
- Not in summer. On the W and the Base Torres guides stopped being required on September 16, 2026, after the winter rule, though microspikes and trekking poles were still required while snow and ice lasted. The O is closed in winter; on October 1, 2026 it was closed until October 31, pending the park's weather and safety review.
- How much does it cost to hike Torres del Paine?
- The park ticket for a foreign adult is CLP 48,500 for more than one day (2026). Camps in 2026-27 run from about US$11 a night with your own tent at Vertice's camps to US$50 or more at Las Torres. In 2020 I spent about $300 in pesos on the trek, plus about $1,000 for my flight.
- How high is the John Gardner Pass?
- My GPS read 1,208 m (3,963 ft) at the pass; 1,200 m is the published figure. It is the one real climb of the circuit, about 2,100 ft up from Los Perros, and the windiest place on the route.
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