How many days do you need to hike Hornstrandir?

I walked from Hesteyri to Veiðileysufjörður in four days and three nights, about 58 miles, and I hike faster than most. For most people a 6 to 7 day version split at the campsites is a better trip, with time for weather and for Hornbjarg.

When is the best time to hike Hornstrandir?

Summer. The scheduled boats run from about June 1 to late August, and rangers are at Hesteyri and Hornvík. I went July 10 to 13, 2019, and still crossed snow patches on the passes.

Where do you sleep in Hornstrandir?

In your tent, and only at the designated campsites, such as Hesteyri, Sæból, Fljótavatn, Hlöðuvík, Hornvík and Veiðileysufjörður. Two of my camps were not at campsites, so don't copy them. The orange emergency shelters are for emergencies only.

How do you get to Hornstrandir?

Fly from Reykjavík's domestic airport to Ísafjörður, then take a boat into the reserve. You book both the boat in and the boat out. In 2026 a one-way boat to Hesteyri or Veiðileysufjörður was ISK 13,900 to 14,900.

Do you need a permit for Hornstrandir?

No permit is needed in summer. From 1 March to 15 June and from 1 September to 1 November you must register your trip online with the reserve before you go.

The Hornstrandir film: Westfjords, Iceland

Westfjords, Iceland · 4 days · 58 miles

Hornstrandir Hiking Guide

My GPS files, day maps and notes from four days alone across Iceland's Hornstrandir reserve, plus the boats and their 2026 prices.

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Real pages from the guide. Tap one to see it big.

A day page
A day map and elevation profile
At a glance
The boats

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The route

My GPS recording of 4 days on a relief map. The numbers are where each day starts; the red dot is the finish. The full GPX files and the day maps come with the guide.

Relief map of the Hornstrandir route: 4 days drawn in red with numbered day starts, labelled Hesteyri, Veiðileysufjörður, Aðalvík, Fljótavík, Hornvík and Hornbjarg. — Map data: Terrain: Mapzen Terrain Tiles (EU-DEM) on AWS · Rivers & lakes © OpenStreetMap contributors

At a glance

Days: 4 days
Distance: 58 miles
Climbing: About 10,600 ft (3,220 m) up
Season: Summer
Route: Hesteyri to Veiðileysufjörður

What's inside

All four days. Stats, time to allow, my notes, the trail with the official route descriptions, where to get off, a map with an elevation profile, and links to that day in my film.
My GPX files. My own recordings for each day and the full route, with waypoints for the campsites, boat landings, passes and the roped gully, ready for AllTrails, Gaia GPS, Garmin or Organic Maps.
The boats. The three boat companies from Ísafjörður, where they land, 2026 prices and departure days, and how pickups work.
The reserve rules and campsites. Where you can camp (only at campsites, and two of my camps weren't), registration dates, and the rules on fires, dogs, drones and arctic foxes.
Getting to Ísafjörður. The flight, where I stayed and ate, and where to buy stove fuel, since you can't fly with it.
Other ways to do it. A slower 6 to 7 day plan split at the campsites, and shorter trips from Hornvík.
What I carried. My 2019 kit, and what I wish I'd had: a hat, sun protection and a bug net.
Before you go and a trip sheet. One page of year-to-year checks and a printable one-page summary of the whole trip.

About this trip

In July 2019 I backpacked alone for four days across the Hornstrandir Nature Reserve in Iceland's Westfjords, about 58 miles from the boat landing at Hesteyri to Hornvík, the Hornbjarg cliffs and a boat pickup in Veiðileysufjörður. It's the trip from my film Hiking 60 miles Alone in Iceland. This guide has my GPS files, maps and notes for every day, plus the boats and their 2026 prices, the reserve rules and campsites, and what to carry.

Watch the film on YouTube (5.4M views).

Gear for this route

Paid links: I earn a commission if you buy through these links, at no extra cost to you. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

I was a noob hiker in a lot of ways on this trip, with a small pack and four nights in my tent. Here's what I carried in 2019, what I'd take now (including what I wish I'd had), and what I filmed with.

What I carried in 2019

Packa small backpackSmaller than most people's out there.
TentREI Passage tentI'd had it since Peru.Similar: NEMO Hornet Elite OSMO 1P Amazon
Sleeping bagNemo sleeping bag
Sleeping pada sleeping pad
Clothespants and a shellI wore them with the hood up against the flies.
Hata beanieI brought warm layers because I knew it was a colder hike, and wore the beanie to keep the sun off my forehead.
Bootsmy old bootsThey were terrible, and my boots and socks were soaked most days. I dried my socks on the outside of my pack while I walked.
Water filterSawyer SqueezeMy first filter.Similar: Katadyn BeFree AC · 1L Amazon
Stovea small gas stoveWith a canister from Nettó in Ísafjörður, and ramen.

What I'd take now

My current kit for what this route needs, starting with what I wish I'd had in 2019.

CapPATH Projects Muir Cap 2.0 PATH ProjectsIt was bright for the first couple of days and I got sunburned. I wish I'd had a cap.
Sun hoodiePATH Projects Pyrenees T19 Hoodie PATH ProjectsThe other thing I wish I'd had for those sunny days, with sunscreen.
SocksPATH Projects Joyner Crew Sock PATH ProjectsBring an extra pair. If socks are the one thing you bring extra of, you can always have a dry pair.
Rain shellArc’teryx Beta AR Jacket Arc’teryxFull rain gear, even in July: fog, rain and wind come in fast from the sea.
PuffyArc’teryx Cerium Hoody Arc’teryxIt's cold even in July.
TentNEMO Hornet Elite OSMO 1P AmazonThis route needs a tent that handles wind and rain.
Sleeping padTherm-a-Rest NeoAir XLite NXT Amazon
StoveJetboil Stash AmazonYou can't fly with a gas canister: buy one at Nettó in Ísafjörður.
Water filterKatadyn BeFree AC · 1L AmazonThe filter I carry now.
Power bankNitecore NB20000 Amazon
NavigationAllTrails+ AllTrails · 30% offImport my GPX files and download them offline before the boat. Offline maps need the paid plan.
Phone dataAiralo eSIM Airalo · $3 offData in Ísafjörður and around Iceland. There's almost no signal inside the reserve.

Filming kit

What I filmed this trip with in 2019. I'd set up the tripod, lock the exposure and focus, walk through the shot and come back for the camera, so every scene cost me about three times the energy. Check The reserve rules before you think of flying: since May 2026 the reserve gives no drone permits for hobby flying.

CameraSony a7 III Amazon
LensSony FE 16-35mm f/2.8 GM Amazon
DroneDJI Mavic 2 ProNo longer made.
Tripoda tripod

What I film with now

Since September 2026 I film with a smaller setup: the Pocket 4 and the Mic 3 on the trail, and the Mini 5 Pro in the air.

CameraDJI Osmo Pocket 4 Amazon
MicDJI Mic 3 · 1 TX + 1 RX AmazonIt pairs with the Pocket 4.
DroneDJI Mini 5 Pro Amazon

Everything I carry now: my gear page.

The Day 4, Hornvík to Veiðileysufjörður page from the Hornstrandir Hiking Guide

Free sample + packing list

Try Day 4 free, plus my packing list

Hornvík to Veiðileysufjörður

The whole day page from the guide as a PDF, plus my camping packing list: the 42 things I carry, with a note on each. The PDF opens right away and both come by email. You'll also get my emails about new guides and trips, a few a year.

The details

Format: A 47-page PDF sized for a phone (A5, prints fine too) and a folder of GPX files, in one zip download.
Edition: 2027 season edition, updated October 2026.
Delivery: Instant. After you pay you get a private download link. Bookmark it to download again on any device.
Payment: Secure checkout through Stripe, in your own currency. Tax is included in the price, except in the US and Canada, where any sales tax is added at checkout.
Refunds: Not useful? Email me within 30 days for a refund: kraig@kraigadams.com.
Questions: Email kraig@kraigadams.com.

Questions

How many days do you need to hike Hornstrandir?: I walked from Hesteyri to Veiðileysufjörður in four days and three nights, about 58 miles, and I hike faster than most. For most people a 6 to 7 day version split at the campsites is a better trip, with time for weather and for Hornbjarg.
When is the best time to hike Hornstrandir?: Summer. The scheduled boats run from about June 1 to late August, and rangers are at Hesteyri and Hornvík. I went July 10 to 13, 2019, and still crossed snow patches on the passes.
Where do you sleep in Hornstrandir?: In your tent, and only at the designated campsites, such as Hesteyri, Sæból, Fljótavatn, Hlöðuvík, Hornvík and Veiðileysufjörður. Two of my camps were not at campsites, so don't copy them. The orange emergency shelters are for emergencies only.
How do you get to Hornstrandir?: Fly from Reykjavík's domestic airport to Ísafjörður, then take a boat into the reserve. You book both the boat in and the boat out. In 2026 a one-way boat to Hesteyri or Veiðileysufjörður was ISK 13,900 to 14,900.
Do you need a permit for Hornstrandir?: No permit is needed in summer. From 1 March to 15 June and from 1 September to 1 November you must register your trip online with the reserve before you go.

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