Scottish Highlands, Scotland · 4 days · 96 miles · solo, plus Ben Nevis

West Highland Way Hiking Guide

In June 2023 I hiked the whole West Highland Way alone in four days, from Milngavie on the edge of Glasgow to Fort William, then climbed Ben Nevis the next morning by the Carn Mor Dearg Arete. Loch Lomond and Conic Hill, Glen Falloch, Rannoch Moor, Glencoe and the Devil's Staircase, and the worst midges of my life. This guide has my GPS files, maps and notes for every day, where to sleep and the Loch Lomond camping rules, the trains and buses, and a plan for the usual six to eight days.

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The cover of the West Highland Way Hiking Guide

What's inside

Look inside

At a glance page from the West Highland Way Hiking Guide
At a glance
A day page page from the West Highland Way Hiking Guide
A day page
A day map and elevation profile page from the West Highland Way Hiking Guide
A day map and elevation profile
One-page trip sheet page from the West Highland Way Hiking Guide
One-page trip sheet

The details

Format
A 53-page PDF sized for a phone (A5, prints fine too) and a folder of GPX files, in one zip download.
Edition
2027 season edition, updated September 2026.
Delivery
Instant. After you pay you get a private download link. Bookmark it to download again on any device.
Payment
Secure checkout through Stripe. The price is in US dollars, and sales tax or VAT is added where it applies.
Questions
Email kraig@kraigadams.com.
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Questions

How many days does the West Highland Way take?
The official site says most people take six to seven days, and its suggested itineraries run from five to seven. I hiked it alone in four days in June 2023: 37, 29, 22 and 17 miles. Unless you're a fast, fit hiker who wants long days, plan six to eight.
How hard is the West Highland Way?
For me it was one of my easiest long-distance hikes: close to sea level, very well marked, with little climbing for its distance. The highest point is the top of the Devil's Staircase, 1,821 ft (555 m) on my GPS. What makes it hard is the distance, the rough lochside path north of Rowardennan, the open moor and the weather.
Can you wild camp on the West Highland Way?
Outside the Loch Lomond camping zones, yes, under the Scottish Outdoor Access Code. On the east shore of Loch Lomond, from March 1 to September 30, you may only camp in a campsite or with a camping permit: £4.50 per tent per night in 2026, booked online up to four weeks ahead.
Are the midges bad on the West Highland Way?
They can be. Midges are out from about May to October, worst in midsummer, early and late in the day and on calm, overcast days. In early June 2023 I had the worst bug experience of my life packing up my tent one morning, though during the day the sun and wind kept them away. Bring a proper midge head net.
Can someone carry your bag on the West Highland Way?
Yes. Travel-Lite and AMS Scotland move bags between your nights for the whole Way: £80 a bag in 2026, from March 21 to October 18. I carried everything myself.
Can you climb Ben Nevis after the West Highland Way?
Yes, straight from Fort William. The Mountain Track from Glen Nevis is the ordinary way, 6 to 9 hours up and down. The morning after I finished, I went up by the Carn Mor Dearg Arete, a longer route with an easy scramble: 17.5 miles and about 4,930 ft of climbing my way.

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